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#1
November 8th 2006, 13:05
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You could loose the dropped spindles, and use adjustable beam. Spacers and wider fenders look like your future though.
__________________
1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans  1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels VKG 
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#2
February 25th 2007, 08:20
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Hi,
Looking more into the adjustable beam option: would the comfort/driveability suffer? As in harsh ride? Would oil shocks or gas be the best? Assuming the same amount of lowering, about 2,5". The PUMA have as I understand a maximum of about 5"
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#3
February 25th 2007, 21:46
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The PUMA beam is one of the better adjustable beams (I've had one for 15 years or so). Gas shocks for sure (KYB GR-2 for lowered beam). Depending on how you set-up the height, the ride is not too bad. Mine (was) set-up for cornering, but now I have dropped spindles and bigger sway bar (+16 inch wheels). I preloaded the torsion bars to give better cornering before. because, I didn't have a sway bar (don't ask). Now I have it set-up softer (just a little). To have the best ride using only a dropped beam, you just have to make sure the upper and lower torsions are set on the same setting. If you want it stiffer. Lock the bottom close to stock height, and put weight on front end then set the top to the height you want.
__________________
1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans 1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels VKG
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#4
February 26th 2007, 06:32
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Hi,
Thank you for the reply! Appreciate opinions on this... Would you say that you gained a lot of comfort with the dropped spindels? This is not going to be a track car, but my summertime-cruiser Another option I consider is adjusting to a large negative camber at the front, and thereby pushing the wheels out from the lower balljoint. Any opinions on this?
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#5
February 26th 2007, 12:39
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The dropped spindle's give more of a "stock like" ride. So, they are better than just adjustable beam, but if you don't go to low the rides not bad with beam only.
The more negative camber, more (faster) tire wear. They make a 2 inch narrowed puma beam (CB Performance). You could get spacers to clear ball joint on dropped spidle, and stay inside stock fender lip. The narrowed beam will require narrowed torsion leaves, and tie rod assy. Which CB also sells.
__________________
1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans 1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels VKG
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#6
February 26th 2007, 16:00
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The problem with the last option is the regulations and veichle inspection here in Norway.
Tire wear is to much of a problem, so I`ll try adjusting the camber. Also I got a tip that the problem was probably largely beacuse the suspension was not loaded. So that reducing the rebound and a bit more camber I might get lucky 
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#7
February 27th 2007, 19:03
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One more option:
Do a brake system that has more positive offset, thereby moving the wheel away from the suspension. It's an excuse for a brake upgrade... Lanner
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