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#1
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BTW, reliability is easy to understand but hard to define. Everyone's definition and threshold will be different. Quote:
I will say horsepower and torque are fleeting numbers and can vary within the same hardware selection. Another aspect on horsepower and torque that warrants emphasizing is these numbers will vary with the same exact engine and combo depending on where it is measured. For example, the original engine in my '71 was as stock as stock can be. The owner's manual lists it as being 60 bhp at 4400 rpm and 81.7 ft-lbs. at 3000 rpm. It was measured on the dyno during November 2005 at 44.5 hp at 4200 rpm and 69.2 ft-lbs. at 2700 rpm. If one of the experts chime in with a guesstimate or a range with your hypothetical hp, they are more likely to spout a dyno number as the experts I have listened to have access to, have had access to, or own a dyno. |
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#2
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WEll guys what I meant for it being reliable is because it will be my daily driver. My Sentra is going to my brother so the bug has to be reliable.I dont want to have to replace something every week
I never read anything on other forums about a 2007cc, are they a nice motor when built up nice?This motor wont be touched until my bugs body is done and its up and running so I got plenty of time.Im just wanting ideas so I'll know ahead of time what I want you know what I mean?I cant find any heads with the 45x35.5 valves but I seen heads with 42x37.5 valves, dual rev springs, chromoly retainers s/s sure grips and whatever bore I want.I also read the tech articles on aircooled.net, mostly the one on basic bolt ons for a 1600cc. |
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#3
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Remember the bug is a very light car compared to others, so even with lower HP numbers you can outrun them. According to John Connoly from aircooled.net, with about 140 HP you can outrun a mustang, and above 180 you can beat a vette Now, regarding piston size reliability, the reason for this is that you want your cylinder walls to be as tick as stock. If you use thinner walls, heat will warp them. As for revving the engine. You can do it, however, too high rpm means a lot of friction, and a lot of wear, therefore, less useful life. Remember that the stock bug has a redline at abou 4500 rpm (at least a mex-spec bug does). You can get a higher redline by changing some components, such as the crank, the cam, connecting rods, etc, but then, ther'es wear. That's exactly why I chose a stroker. Higer power at lower RPM's, and even better, more torque in the lowrange! All these equal longer life under similar conditions Edit: Oh and I forgot to say, I am also adding an extra oil cooler, since the extra displacement will generate more heat, and more heat = less life.
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________________________ 1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame": Engine: Planning Stage Transmission: Planning Stage Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake Last edited by EvilAngel; January 23rd 2007 at 02:38. Reason: Forgot to add: |
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