70Turbobug´s 2 liter turbo

[70Turbobug]

All the points you guys have made are correct and I´m not arguing against them per say.There are some people that don´t like the Remmele set up - which is fine.To me,it´s a great set up and it does have a few flaws.If I were to improve the suspension I would build a double wishbone suspension instead.That of course is quite a task and to get it street legal here in germany would cost dearly.The bug will primarily be driven on the street,once in a great while on the track.The Remmele set up has it´s weeknesses of course as does any suspension set up.Whether the loads are transfered into the chassis better than the tosion bars,I can´t really say.But it makes a world of difference compared the usual Koni and adjustable beam set up.The car acts completely different and to me, seems more stable especially in fast and bumpy corners.Another reason is the adjustability as mentioned.

Back to the cast pistons: Yes,you all are right! One big reason for knock is high piston crown temperature and chamber temperature,correct? A cast piston will have less temperature overall.Interestingly Corky Bell explains in his "Maximum Boost" Book the advantages of a cast piston vs. a forged piston.Of course there comes a point where the forged piston is needed due to it´s higher density.I may have to switch to forged pistons for that matter.I would like to keep the 24mm wrist pin because the rods are finished.

[evilC]

[QUOTE=70Turbobug;71995]All the points you guys have made are correct and I´m not arguing against them per say.There are some people that don´t like the Remmele set up - which is fine.To me,it´s a great set up and it does have a few flaws.If I were to improve the suspension I would build a double wishbone suspension instead.That of course is quite a task and to get it street legal here in germany would cost dearly.The bug will primarily be driven on the street,once in a great while on the track.The Remmele set up has it´s weeknesses of course as does any suspension set up.Whether the loads are transfered into the chassis better than the tosion bars,I can´t really say.But it makes a world of difference compared the usual Koni and adjustable beam set up.The car acts completely different and to me, seems more stable especially in fast and bumpy corners.Another reason is the adjustability as mentioned.

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We do have advantages in Britain regarding building specials but I was not suggesting a double wishbone unit. In fact, I was suggesting that for the rear you could make life simpler by retaining the torsion bars and adding the coilover to increase the overall wheel rate. I suspect that the reason the Remmelle coilover you have tried works well is that the wheel rate has been increase measurably over stock. I note that Remmelle's rear coilovers are 90kg/cm or 120kg/cm, which is some 50+% over stock. You could achieve that sort of increase by retaining the torsion bars and adding lighter weight coil overs. Whilst Konis have a good reputation I would recommend Bilstein for a performance application and adding a 50lb/inch (9kg/cm) helper + 150ish lb/inch (27kg/cm) main spring. The damper needs to reflect the frequency of the whole spring rate so a notional equivalent would have to be calculated.

Clive