Going junk diving

[SCCAbeetle]

Originally Posted by evilC

Now where do you want to start..................?
Clive

Well...
I can go junk yard diving, and I am saving up for a Scat motor (the 2332cc, it puts down about 140hp or so, which in a regular beetle is enough)

I was thinking about that engine, along with shocks, brakes, any stabilization bars that might help, along with new wheels, roll cage and running some really sticky R compound tires.

Im sure that is not a complete list, I just would like to be able to autocross for fun occasionally and do decently.

[evilC]

Originally Posted by SCCAbeetle

Well...
I can go junk yard diving, and I am saving up for a Scat motor (the 2332cc, it puts down about 140hp or so, which in a regular beetle is enough)

I was thinking about that engine, along with shocks, brakes, any stabilization bars that might help, along with new wheels, roll cage and running some really sticky R compound tires.

Im sure that is not a complete list, I just would like to be able to autocross for fun occasionally and do decently.

Don't get hooked up on the glamour of having a big engine in the first instance since you will get more productivity per $/£ on suspension and brakes. I have suggested a couple of very good reads on your other thread. principally, for AutoX an IRS rear is highly desireable but that will mean a new gearbox as well. If you do go IRS then 944 rear undercarriage (brakes and suspension) is a straightish bolt on with full adjustability, 23.5mm TBs and big disc brakes. Fit 4 pot calipers to the rear and a method of adjusting the front/rear brake bias. The 944 kit will increase the track to an advantage that big offset tyres may rectify under standard arches. Make the shell as stiff as possible because you will not get the best out of any comp car unless you have full control. Fit polyurethane bushes all round at least but where you can rose/heim joints will be useful. 944 brakes to the front are also useful. Fit the best dampers you can and pay particular attention to suspension settings - invest in some set up gear like a ADA caster/camber gauge and at least a Trackrite pad for toe.
Don't overtyre the car as your motor will spend too much power getting the tyres to turn and change direction. It might be worth sticking to road tyres initially so that you can experience the subtlties of the handling. In any case with a ceiling of <150bhp You won't need anything bigger than 180mm section width for best times.
Lastly and most importantly - LOSE WEIGHT! This will have the most effect on lap times. This is generally a free exercise as long as you don't go substituting titanium this and that. A friend of mine became obsessive about weight in his road rally car to the point where he took all the bolts out of the vehicle and cut them to the precise correct length. The bucket of bolt ends weighed in at around 10kgs! With a standard engine he used to embarrass those with high buck budgets,glitz and glamour parts, so it did work.

Clive

[SCCAbeetle]

Yeah- just my only worry is that my SCCA class is really not friendly to beetles.
I can't lose anymore weight then the stock weight.

[zen]

Originally Posted by evilC

A friend of mine became obsessive about weight in his road rally car to the point where he took all the bolts out of the vehicle and cut them to the precise correct length. The bucket of bolt ends weighed in at around 10kgs! Clive

Now that's commitment...the obsessive kind.

[evilC]

Originally Posted by zen

Now that's commitment...the obsessive kind.

It may have been obsessive but since the guy couldn't afford the go-faster parts of his piers he had to level the playing field somehow. The car competed in the Lada Challenge (the rounds that he could afford) and some of the other lightening that was carried out:

A thin 1/4" foam layer substituted for a rear seat on road rallies - it often passed scutineering.
Fiat 124 steel wings that were 1/2 the weight of the identical Lada wings that he then acid dipped at the local door strippers.
Guts cut out of the doors and the outer skin substituted with 1.0mm aluminium. Those doors were frighteningly flimsy.
All side and rear 'glass' was 4mm polycarbonate.
The sumpguard was 1/4" polycarbonate bonded to 1/2" ply - lighter than aluminium and very effective!
The holesaw was also given free range.

Just to finish the description all of this work was carried out in a lock-up garage with no power and a hurricane lamp for lighting. All drilling was carried out with a hand drill (non-electric) and all cutting was by hacksaw or shears.

That wasn't obsession it was dedication. Dick was/is a true clubman, a man to admire.

Clive