My other 1303 GL

[Steve C]

Hi

I had the body soda blasted to remove the paint, I was very happy with the outcome, no surprises.

Its a very gentle process it even left the factory seam sealer in the drip rails, it wont remove rust or thick nicky.

This body has not been driven since 1983, there was no rust at all in the rear window area.

The finished photos don't do it justice, the finish looks like you see in the factory assembly line photos.

Old repairs can be seen as a different shade to the rest of the body.

I've just been around at the panel beaters rust treating all the bits I welded in firewall area with some product from Wurth, now on with pan.

Steve

[Steve C]

Hi

In a previous life this car was sports sedan running a 12a rotary motor

Ther pan took a lot of work, there was about 18 holes where various things were mounted to the floor pan, roll cage, the muffler and battery were mounted on the passengers side floor with big hole in the floor where the muffler exited, these have now all been fixed up.

I had to call on expert help from Brad a Westside mufflers to weld up my alloy mirrors after I cut the attaching legs off. The mirrors need to be painted with rest of the car so Brad kindly fitted this fiddly job into his busy schedule. It was made fiddly because these early Falcon GT replica mirrors appear to be die cast and were bitch to weld.

I'm using the stock mirror mount holes and using cutdown stock mirror stalks, this way I can change mirrors without having to drill new holes in the door, I ran the same mirror stalks on my old yellow bug but with XA falcon (Mel Gibsons Road Warrior car) mirrors.

I'm fitting air con to the car, so the inlet grilles were welded up as well as the LHD wiper holes. The extra holes in the bulkhead is where the stock dash fan will draw in air.

Hows this for a rust free air box? I'm going to use the stock air box drain tube on the evaporator housing and I've fitted a smaller OD drain hose in case any moisture gets into the air box.

Steve

[Steve C]

Hi

I relocated the brake master cylinder 30 mm to the drivers (right) side, this gives me enough room to fit a clutch master in next to it.

I now have to move the lever on the brake pedal over 30 mm as well and fit rose joint attachment to the clutch pedal to operate the clutch master cylinder.

I had Brad (aka Westy) weld some fittings on the tank. 1/2 outlet and and 2 x 3/8 return lines into the tank, while he was at it I got him to fill in the LHD part of the tank for some increased capacity, I think maybe 2 - 4 litres gain.

I bought this tank from a wrecker in about 2002 for my old yellow 1302, it was a genuine VW German replacement tank that looked almost new.

Steve

[Steve C]

1st bit of paint on the body, I'm not sure if I said earlier but I went with Porsche blood orange after many test batches of paint ranging from purple to yellow.

I dug all the dreaded foam out of the shell, I've saturated the area with Lanolin and stuck wool offcuts in all the cavities.

[Steve C]

I had to chop the chassis up a bit to move the G50 forward 100 mm. I used 26 mm Sway away short torsion bars

[Steve C]

A few more photos of the brake pedal setup.

I moved the brake master cylinder over to the right 30 mm so that I could fit the clutch master next to it.

Nothing was open over the new years break to buy anything decent to make the clutch m/c clevis with so I had make do with what I had.

[Steve C]

Hi

Fitted some new rotors 930 turbo to my 996 rear brakes that I use on the front. I originally had extreme cross drilled rotors, I'm sure the engineer wouldn't have liked them, these rotors and hubs were originally on the Dak to the Future car.

I've also ran all new soft & hard brake lines. I'm thinking about moving my bake fluid reservoir down lower nearer to master cylinder along with the clutch master, I hate the tube arrangement that RHD bugs got.

Is this anal? I went and ran a torque wrench over all chassis bolts.

Steve

Photo explanation, all the brakes and some of the suspension were on my old yellow bug, the extreme cross drilled rotors when they were on my yellow 1302 bug

[effvee]

Originally Posted by Steve C

I had to chop the chassis up a bit to move the G50 forward 100 mm. I used 26 mm Sway away short torsion bars

Ok then, now I know that I just should go for it. About a year ago I bought a rear axle housing I think the guy said it was from a station wagon. I won't need the axle tubes, but I still need the structure for safety reasons. The horns I won't need and I really won't a automatic. Man I am going to have my hands full. So longer axles and no more than 28 degrees on the CVs and I should be ok. Sand sport stated you could get 500 to 1000 turbo horses from a SVX wow. We just bought a house, now I can get started. So much money on the type IV engine. It's a good thing that I have three bugs