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Old April 18th 2011, 08:19
effvee effvee is offline
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Cams

Hi, one thing I have noticed about VW cams; the case hardness. I had a 2332 type one chew up some lifters just like that. It is my understanding that most cams come some-wat hardened. However the lifter are harden. From what I remember in the first start up we should run up the rpm to 2500-3000 for about one hour. This is supposed to season the cam, or equally hardened both parts. Something was of lessor hardness, no doubt. My question is, are you to believe that things won't go even more wrong? Even I a know nothing, knows better than that.

The problem is, with VW's doing a cam is just like doing a total overhaul. On my type IV project, I bought a cam from Pauter with a one inch base circle. I was told that the cam would not be any problems. Most sellers of cams don't harden their cams, they send them out. And I wonder just how much do they pay to have their cams tempered. I had my cam re-hardened to 61 Rockwell, I plan to buy a set of hardened 356 styled lifters to match my cam. At one point I want to try and do a roller cam setup. I went to Iskyderian camshafts. I was lucky enough to speak with Ed Iskyderian himself. He did not want to make a one time cam. But he did share something with me; he said roller cams are both equally hardened to the same hardness. Thus me having my cam hardened. I would not send the many bits of metal though out my engine. I also would buy a new cam and have it hardened myself. Lastly get a good set of lifters. On my 356 lifters I had a .020 oil hole laser drilled, did your lifter come with the oil hole? Is you lifters and bore re-bored for type one lifters. To much work and possible engine failure to chance it. Is the name Jake the same as Jake Raby? Once you damaged the hardend area, its just surface hardend.
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Old April 18th 2011, 10:12
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Bogara_ZO Bogara_ZO is offline
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Hi,

I know in the States that is the common way to break-in an engine. I have read a lot about it and also Jake pointed my attention to this. However I understand the "why" in Europe it is not so popular. I don't know how did you do yours but I know a few engines that skipped this method and all of them still run great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by effvee View Post
My question is, are you to believe that things won't go even more wrong?
That is a good question. One hand if something is really wrong, it may cause major failure I know. On the other hand engine never ran without oilfilter, and no metal was found in the oil. + Jake says the lifters will be hardened till the break-in period ends. -> can't decide, lack of experiences.

Yes, the complete valvetrain is from R.A.T., I wanted to purchase a complete set to avoid this kind of issues..but I called him "seller" bacause I really don't want anybody to feel that I'm saying it is Jake's fault, he is selling poor quality products or something like this. I just wanted to show you the facts and ask for your advice. As you can see on his website all the lifters has the oil hole and all of them are parkerized before be selled.

The question is if it's a "user error" and we did something wrong or I'm just unlucky with this set of lifters (like the guys who help building the engine had similar issues with Schleicher and Scat parts as well). **** happens, no one can guarantee what" going on during the production. The bad thing I can't buy a new set of them
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Last edited by Bogara_ZO; April 18th 2011 at 10:32.
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Old April 19th 2011, 11:52
effvee effvee is offline
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A bit off topic

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Originally Posted by Bogara_ZO View Post
I Know in the States that is the common way to break-in an engine. I have read a lot about it and also Jake pointed my attention to this. However I understand the "why" in Europe it is not so popular. I don't know how did you do yours but I know a few engines that skipped this method and all of them still run great.
What are the break in procedures in Europe?
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