WRX/Porsche Karmann cabrio 1303

[ricola]

Tension link tacked in at nominal geometry position. Some people will fit a clevis type joint to the lateral part but I only wanted minimal adjustment. Welded will give better stiffness.


I trawled ebay for a nice short anti-roll bar that I thought I could adapt and ended up with this from a Mk2 Ford Mondeo, less than £5 delivered for the pair! It was a case of making up some fairly simple adapters to bolt on to the standard 1303 anti-roll bar ends.


Brackets to weld on to the new A arms


Finished A arm ready for paint


Finished 'kit' ready to be fitted! Note I did machine down the blocks some more compared to earlier pictures to maintain the stock pick up position heights and maximise ground clearance.


Ball joint pressed in and rod ends adjusted with their rubber boots to give them a bit more life


All done!


Closer view of one side..


So, the verdict: in summary well worth it! The front end feels so much more alive and communicative but NVH is hardly affected at all. The tyres seem to work a lot better as they are not moving around so much and the steering is even a bit lighter too. Even on motorways you can feel what's going on with the most subtle of movements. Overall it just gives so much more confidence in what the car i doing and that means a lot!

For anybody else that wants to try something similar this is what I used:

Inner joints: M10 male rod ends with high misalignment spacers

Forward joints: M14 rod ends with standard misalignment spacer, additional 18mm spacer inboard

Stock lower strut ball joints

1 1/2" diameter 0.1" wall thickness CDS tubing

Mk 2 Ford Mondeo/Cougar rear anti-roll bar links

If you can't work out the rest then frankly you probably shouldn't be trying to copy it!!