GTyp3: 69 Notchback sleeper

[Clatter]

Well that doesn't look like much of a motor right there.. Alternator or no alternator! Ha ha..

Sorry if I'm all over the six-cylinder installation, but it's stuff that's been floating around in my head for the last 15 years or so.

So you want it to be a road car.. Full gentleman?
That means a rubber-mounted sub, then, right?
Always felt to me that the type 3 just floated down the highway soft and plush like the 'murrican V8s I grew up with.
It's really part of the appeal.
Compared to my beetle, the ride is very civilized.
It'll add another dimension to the build to make the rear sub still float on rubber, but handle that much power as well.
Maybe time to start a junkyard tour with an eye on motor mounts to use..?


IMHO, you're going to have to move the trans forward an inch or two just to make room for that motor!

You'll be removing all of the cooling ductwork from the rear of the car?
It would make room no doubt, but moving the drive-train forward is such a noble pursuit, you might consider saving the ductwork and apron as a side benefit.

The limit to how far forward my drive-train could move was my decision to keep the torsions.
If you go coil-overs, the limit to how far forward your drive-train could go would then become the CV angles.
When you go as far forward as you can, then the CV flanges move forward of square from the centerline of the axles, therefore 'sweeping back'.
So at that point, max CV angle at full compression and full droop, plus 'sweep back' angle = max angle.

I'm assuming that your CVs are similar to 930, and have a good angle,
(or you can easily swap to 930 CVs),
So there's your max forward drivetrain limitation..

Dunno if this makes any sense...


I'll try and find the time to dig up the relevant pics from my build thread.
The 'house' under the rear seat I had to make was surprisingly small.
You also only see small little 'humps' at the rear of the back-seat floor, in front of the kick-panel, because of my rubber mounting.

So, if you go full gentlemen, rubber-mount and all, plus moving your bigass G-50 like four or five inches forward, it will still have a bit of foot-room for your rear-seat passengers.
Gentlemen street cars need rear-seat foot-room, of course, right?

I say you should aspire to move the drivetrain way forward and upward,
As well as narrow the torsion housing.
Plus rubber mount!
But, of course, it's not years of my life to be spent doing it, so of course I'll say that..!

I'm only 12 years into my project, and it's still a bare shell, so don't listen to me.

Still, if you're going to rip the thing open for such radical surgery.
might as well go forward with all of that weight!

Get that damn thing stripped down to a shell already!

[Steve C]

This is turning into a great read, thanks for all the additional info Clatter.

I cut off my chassis forks and made new ones from 1 3/4" roll cage tubing, I used 40 HP length torsion bars (30mm Swayaway) when I cut through the torsion bar area for my G50

[Wally]

Originally Posted by Clatter

Well that doesn't look like much of a motor right there.. Alternator or no alternator! Ha ha..

Hey, don't discard the 1500 single port engine!
But it really runs nicely when warmed-up and this car is so much fun to drive, so I really wanted to make the most of it while it still is in one piece.

Sorry if I'm all over the six-cylinder installation, but it's stuff that's been floating around in my head for the last 15 years or so.

Me too, hence I bit the bullit while I had the chance

So you want it to be a road car.. Full gentleman?
That means a rubber-mounted sub, then, right?

Yeah, - ish...Not sure what it means, but I'll just want it in asap and only do the "neccesary", whatever that means, but basically a sleeper car and whatever 'easy' upgrades I can do 'while in there', of course I'll do that.
I already have an ultimate road racer (the 1303), so this doesn't need that corner hugging performance.
It'll still be a many year project I am sure, life events permitting.

IMHO, you're going to have to move the trans forward an inch or two just to make room for that motor!

You'll be removing all of the cooling ductwork from the rear of the car?
It would make room no doubt, but moving the drive-train forward is such a noble pursuit, you might consider saving the ductwork and apron as a side benefit.

The limit to how far forward my drive-train could move was my decision to keep the torsions.
If you go coil-overs, the limit to how far forward your drive-train could go would then become the CV angles.
When you go as far forward as you can, then the CV flanges move forward of square from the centerline of the axles, therefore 'sweeping back'.
So at that point, max CV angle at full compression and full droop, plus 'sweep back' angle = max angle.

I'm assuming that your CVs are similar to 930, and have a good angle,
(or you can easily swap to 930 CVs),
So there's your max forward drivetrain limitation..

Dunno if this makes any sense...

Yeah, thats about the idea: the tranny has already 930 flanges and there are 930 flanges for the IRS VW arms. I also already have a set of bullit proof axles equipped for 930 CV's, so I'll just see what room forwards those allow and that will be it.
Yeah, I have a funny way of doing things hey?

I'll try and find the time to dig up the relevant pics from my build thread.
The 'house' under the rear seat I had to make was surprisingly small.
You also only see small little 'humps' at the rear of the back-seat floor, in front of the kick-panel, because of my rubber mounting.

So, if you go full gentlemen, rubber-mount and all, plus moving your bigass G-50 like four or five inches forward, it will still have a bit of foot-room for your rear-seat passengers.
Gentlemen street cars need rear-seat foot-room, of course, right?

I'am really not concerned with rear seat availability tbh, we'll see what it ends up with wrt room or not.
More concerned - and what I see as the biggest modification - is the rear hanger situation. You really can't use the original sheet metal rear end of these imo, so some sort or roll cage will need to come in with a support bar to the back where the engine pick-up point is located. That is the part I want to do as subtle as possible, but will also be the most challenging one I suspect.
All in all, I think the rear fresh air ducting can remain, there is enough room for the engine already from the original transmission bellhousing backwards. The rear original cooling is about the depth of the extra 2 cylinders

Still, if you're going to rip the thing open for such radical surgery.
might as well go forward with all of that weight!

Have you picked-up an original - complete - type 3 engine lately?
I can hardly imagine the six being that much heavier, so I am not that concerned.

Get that damn thing stripped down to a shell already!

Hell no! Haha! These cars are so nice and cool to drive, first enjoy that.

Other then wanting to drive it, this six was somewhat affordable because of accident damage and it has an annoying crack in a place (bell housing area of the casing) that require complete tear down, rerpair and reassemble.
Now, i have disassembled quite some engines in my life, but never rebuild a Porsche watercooled six, let alone a GT3 one. So me driving the notch will nicely coincide with rebuilding the six. After I rebuild reinstall and retune the type 4 turbo engine first.
So, you - as I - have to have a little patience my friend