Wishbone suspension bolt on kit [Archive] - Page 2

volkdent

March 23rd 2006, 02:09

Hey Alex,

The metal parts are all one-off. The bushing are standard Energy Suspension leaf spring bushings, the lower balljoints are stock Type I lowers, the uppers are Ford Galaxy, the spindles are stock Type I, the steering rack and tie rods are MkII Golf, one UV joint is MkII Golf one is Flaming River.

Bruce is semi-retired and owns, runs, and lives at Eyeball Engineering. He has a website with his number on it.

When I've tested and am really happy with mine, I might redesign it to be easier and less costly to build and then maybe people can buy kits or the entire assembly.

Jason

Ribz

March 26th 2006, 01:54

Jason, very impressive to say the least :righton: cant wait untill you do some testing and good luck.

since ive joined way back when ive been more of an onlooker but have to say the innovative minds on this site is a treasure to see. keep up the good work guys :D

MikeVW

June 9th 2006, 00:44

Jason,

What size inner diameter tubing did you use for the the where the bushing is inserted and bolted to the bulkhead? Also what bushings did you use?

Thank,
Mike

volkdent

June 10th 2006, 00:33

I'm sure it sounded good coming out of your head, but I just don't know what your asking. Are you talking about the bushings on the A arms?

Jason

MikeVW

June 11th 2006, 23:12

Oops, I really sound like a retard when I don't proof read my posts. Yes I am talking about where the A arm mounts to the frame.

Mike

volkdent

June 12th 2006, 00:29

The bushings are graphite impregnated polyurethane bushings designed for rear leaf springs for old American cars. The tubing is just machined to match the recommended ID OD for the bushings. If your getting serious about doing something, I can get the part number for them.

Jason

MikeVW

June 12th 2006, 16:02

I am getting close to the design phase of my car. I want to figure out what rims I am going to use before I begin with the suspension. I would appreciate it if you could tell me the part numbers for the bushings.

Thanks,
Mike

volkdent

June 13th 2006, 11:13

I'll be heading to the shop this weekend so I'll check them out then. I just hope I saved the boxes!

Jason

Panelfantastic

June 13th 2006, 13:16

Going to the shop for more progress pics I hope! :D

Jeff-

volkdent

June 13th 2006, 16:27

I seriously havn't touched it in almost a month! Don't worry, once my brakes get back and the garage changaroo get's done, there'll be a flurry of pictured documented activity!

Jeff, as a side note, I'll probably be going to see my best friend in Nashville in Sept, are you in that neck of the woods?

Jason

Panelfantastic

June 13th 2006, 21:14

I'm a couple of hours southwest, just outside of Memphis. My father-in-law lives in Nashville though, eastern side, I think around I-40 milemarker 221. When you get some final plans, let me know. If I'm off, we'll shoot up for the day and grab some beverages:haveadrin .

Jeff-

volkdent

June 19th 2006, 00:46

Hey guys,

This weekend was a change of home for my bug. Walt, the Volksrodders guy, also the guy who built my front suspension, helped me out with his enclosed car trailer. He's such a great guy, I really appreciate him.

Anyway, Mike, I found the wrappers for the PU bushings. They are Energy Suspension part #9-9107G, a 4 bar bushing set with 1-1/4" OD, 1/2" ID.

Jeff, my buddy has an M3 that I'm sure could use a workout, so we can head your way too. I'd love to see your ride in person. Maybe GET a ride? Will you get that damn thing running again!!!!?

Jason

Panelfantastic

June 19th 2006, 07:03

More than welcome to roll this way. Easy to find our place, not far off the interstate, lots of eateries close by. Just try to give a heads up on the day so I can arrange to be off.
If its not going by Sept, we have a pretty serious problem. :mad: This whole waiting on the M/C is driving me nuts, he's a very good friend trying to do me a favor but DANG!

Jeff-

Last Triumph

September 24th 2006, 07:20

Anymore progress?

volkdent

September 24th 2006, 13:05

Sorry, no. Car has been sitting while life happens. Lanners brakes havn't even been installed yet! I will update if I make any progress, I promise.

Jason

Last Triumph

September 25th 2006, 15:59

I hppe this doesn't seem like an overly obvious suggestion, but has anyone just cut the frame head off and welded on a subframe to carry a Mustang II front end? All complete in one package with steering and geometry all worked out?:o

MikeVW

September 25th 2006, 17:55

Might work! I hear these guys have a really good reputation for quality http://www.heidts.com/heip17.htm

Mike

Panelfantastic

September 25th 2006, 18:04

VRSICK

September 25th 2006, 19:39

How exactly would you get the mustang II front end to match up with the bug, or ghia front end?? Start hacking and welding it in I soppose, right? I just finished a beetle project, but i'm considering a ghia 'vert project that I want to start up. My MAIN goal is to make this ghia as highway-able as possible (Maintain speeds of 80+) and this sounds like something I may be able to throw into my blackboard of ideas and combinations of notions.

(Wonder if they can custom make the bolt pattern)

volkdent

September 25th 2006, 21:26

As long as you don't mind hacking and have a very good grasp of suspension design, anything is possible. I don't remember if the Mustangs spindle steering arms are high or low. I used VW because they are high and clear the shifter tunnel.

Jason

MikeVW

September 25th 2006, 22:26

The mustang II has lower steer and I believe the steering arms are in front. The good part about the mustang setup is that you don't need to know much about steering design because it has been perfected in the setup. You just need to be good at fabricating and attaching the new suspension. I think most of the tunnel would be hacked away to make room for this proposed suspension.

Mike

volkdent

September 26th 2006, 00:10

Not overly obvious LT. Jason's whole mission was to make it "bolt on" to any stock pan without having to hack-n-whack. He could have saved a ton of time and money doing it your way but he refuses to be sensible :D .
Have you seen the arse end of his car? ...but he doesn't want to cut the front :laugh: :p !

(Lets see how long it takes dent to rip me a new one...:cool: )

Jeff-

He he, I missed this one! Jeff states the truth, I'm crazy. But it turns out there is a method to my madness. I've been looking into working with a guy from Thailand to modify and and mass produce a better version of what I've already made. Wouldn't you like to bolt up a serious suspension on your bug, built for your bug, and with minor body mods?!!

Just making a front end is easy, making it bolt on with minor modifications, priceless...

Jason

Mikey

September 26th 2006, 00:19

volkdent

September 26th 2006, 01:15

You noticed that too? I noticed it a while back, but I couldn't think of a good way to ask about it or point it out with out sounding smart@$$. :laugh:

It's my rolling test lab, what can I say?!!

Jason

GS guy

September 26th 2006, 07:26

FWIW The Mustang II front suspension isn't the best from a geometry perspective for optimized handling. Sure, it's an A-arm layout but was designed back in the 70's to do a decent job and be inexpensive to mass produce. It's a parallel unequal length layout that doesn't provide very good camber gain and lots of in/out scrub. OK for a hot-rod but not the best if you're wanting "sports car" handling. However, it's still relatively inexpensive with lots of aftermarket versions available - I'm fitting a version of it to my fiberglass body (tube chassis) buggy. I'm going to alter the geometry a little and with the limited suspension travel it shouldn't be too bad. Ideally, you'd lengthen the a-arms (from the stock geometry) and re-work the pick-up points but I don't have room in the buggy for longer arms. Also the spindles aren't really that ideal either, pick-up points require mounting the spindle high (relative to the chassis) - the axle is very low on the spindle. When you start really working the parts for improved geometry you eventually find you'd be better off just starting with a better spindle to start with and working in from there!
I've read ATS is (or will be at some point) coming out with an improved version of the M-II spindle, but that may be quite some time from now...

On the plus side, it was designed to carry the weight of a V8 so the bearings and ball joints are quite a bit beefier than VW (but not "too massive") - great from a performance perspective. Also, with the Chassis Shop/Wilwood brakes the spindle/brake/hub package is significantly lighter than standard VW items even with a bigger rotor size! Built-in domestic bolt pattern comes with the package.
Jeff

Last Triumph

September 26th 2006, 16:23

My theory is this.

I'd love to build the perfect front end for a Beelte, but I don't have access to the maths to work it out.

I'd love to bolt an optimised system straight to my frame head and 'drive away' but nobody make a commercially available system yet....?

Even if I did design my own system, I understand that just one of the elements needs to be only slightly out to screw everything up so it would end up being dreadful anyway.

The VW trailing arm is very poor anyway so it doesn't take much to improve on it.

Whilst the MII system is by no means perfect, it is a pretty good effort and certainly a massive improvement on standard.

It allows the easy fitment of big brakes, comes in attractive chrome finshes with many variable options and is complete as a unit including steering.

If someone can come up with an easier, cheaper and more optimized bolt on system, let me know?

On the basis that I'll be doing an IRS conversion, chopping a G50 trans into the pan, cutting off a frame head and fabricating mounts for an all in one front end shouln't be too difficult as long as it's correctly jigged and mounted?

volkdent

October 3rd 2006, 22:18

Sounds great. Just think about it LONG and HARD. There are soooo many variables to consider when it comes to adding suspension, especially if you want to limit cutting/welding. How will your steering column integrate into the new steering setup, will your tie rods have room to move, where will your rack sit, how will the angles end up, etc. Lots and lots of variables. It can definately be done and really, like you say, it shouldn't be that difficult. Mine had a lot of restrictions due to the parameter limits I set, but if you don't mind doing using American parts and doing some cutting, it really won't be too terrible. Keep in mind that the Mustang II suspension was designed for a car much wider than a bug, so roll center needs to be adjusted. Remember the results need to be worth the effort.

Jason

Panelfantastic

October 4th 2006, 15:22

Jason,
When you gonna pull the trigger on this Thailand option? I'd like to hear what sort of impact on pricing, the mass production will have. The killer is gonna be how many units you have to buy to get a decent deal. Be sure you get a pre production version to test before they do a full run... then send it to me so I can evaluate it :cool: .

Jeff-

volkdent

October 5th 2006, 00:41

PM sent.

Jason

alt+f4

January 7th 2007, 19:32

Is this dead or still alive....havnt heards anythign in a bit.

poor boy

January 7th 2007, 23:57

i'm still waiting also. great concept. would love to be able to keep up with my wife's gti when we go out driving and hitting the corners hard.

Cohibra45

February 8th 2007, 19:29

Jason,

PM sent...:)

Kelly (Cohibra45)

poor boy

February 9th 2007, 00:15

what is pm sent?

EvilAngel

February 9th 2007, 00:42

"PM sent"
PM = Private message.
He meant he sent Jason a Private Message

Shadowbug

April 2nd 2007, 21:40

The good part about the mustang setup is that you don't need to know much about steering design because it has been perfected in the setup.

this is only true if you are using the mustang II sock width, ride height and everything.

I'm using mustangII spindles on my locost (lotus 7 replica) and after plugging the MII dimensions into a suspension analyser I came to the conclusion that there is a lot of room for improvement. In an unequal length non paralell A-arm suspeension, you want as minimal movement of the roll center as possible, first of all the MII roll center was a little higher than I liked, and second it was all over the map in bump and roll.

I've dialed it in for my setup, so I get less than .05 inches of movement in 2" bump or a 3 degree roll, with the roll center at 1" below ground level. My rear suspension is a little looser woth .08" of movement and a roll center of 2" above ground level.

Once I'm finished this project, I'm going to build a new pan for my beetle with A-arm suspension front and rear, I'm fairly sure it "can " be done without cutting the pan (at least in the front) but it would be easier, stronger and lighter to cut out the old and build an all new sub structure.

If I were to market a kit to replace the stock front end with a A-arm unit I'd make it a weld in, so the owner will have to take some responsibility for it.

volkdent

April 4th 2007, 12:46

this is only true if you are using the mustang II sock width, ride height and everything.

I'm using mustangII spindles on my locost (lotus 7 replica) and after plugging the MII dimensions into a suspension analyser I came to the conclusion that there is a lot of room for improvement. In an unequal length non paralell A-arm suspeension, you want as minimal movement of the roll center as possible, first of all the MII roll center was a little higher than I liked, and second it was all over the map in bump and roll.

I've dialed it in for my setup, so I get less than .05 inches of movement in 2" bump or a 3 degree roll, with the roll center at 1" below ground level. My rear suspension is a little looser woth .08" of movement and a roll center of 2" above ground level.

Once I'm finished this project, I'm going to build a new pan for my beetle with A-arm suspension front and rear, I'm fairly sure it "can " be done without cutting the pan (at least in the front) but it would be easier, stronger and lighter to cut out the old and build an all new sub structure.

If I were to market a kit to replace the stock front end with a A-arm unit I'd make it a weld in, so the owner will have to take some responsibility for it.

Thank you Shadowbug, this is the kind of language that is spoken when you are deciding to build a suspension system, so if you don't know what he's talking about, you need to learn before you suggest that making a suspension system is easy. Shadowbug knows more than I do about suspension geometry because he's worked with it on a program and in the real world, I have not even done that, but I've read a lot about it and paid someone who DOES know what they are talking about to design mine. Any time small changes are made it has a ripple effect on the whole suspension system, and small changes make big differences at the wheel.

S-Bug, when you get to that point, give me a shout, I have many of the pan dimensions laid out perfectly, and the idea of a rear A-arm system has been very intriguing to me too. BTW, you're link no longer works, I'd love to see what you've been up to.

Jason

Shadowbug

April 5th 2007, 14:27

Rorty did your design didn't he?
He's well known in the Locost circles, he did a great design for and IRS for the locost. Mine was using a different donor, so design is quite different. Plus it looks as though his design is more of a cruiser, where mine is a little more of an aggressive autocross design.

When it comes time to do the beetle I'll definatly drop you a line, I'll probably use standard sheet metal for the pan halves, but center tunnel will be a triangulated tubular structure, so I can tie it directly to the front and rear pickup points.

as to my site, the link is fixed, but I haven't updated it for a while. Hopefully soon I'll get some pictures uploded of the locost build.

Shadowbug

April 9th 2007, 13:37

I've been thinking...

to design a front suspension there are several "static" Measurements you need to start with.
ride height, roll center, track width and wheelbase
change any one of these and suspension design will not perform as it should.

so how do you design a universal "kit" that anyone can bolt onto the front end of their VW and expect it to perform, considering most will want to alter their ride height from stock, and there will be no set ride height that will make everyone happy.

I think I may have an idea that will allow at least some ride height options, without changing the suspension characteristics too much.
problem is, things start to get expensive.

how much would the average budget be for a kit like this?
a comparable Mustang II kit for a streetrod would be 3-4k

I personally wouldn't want to spend that much, how much would we be willing to spend?

also, Liability, insurance and safety approval costs money too, I'd hate to build a system, and get sued six months later by someone who couldn't bother to read instructions, or was abusing it beyond its designed tollerances.

I'd almost consider doing it, if it weren't for the leagal issues, or sell it as " for display purposes only," with no warranty expressed or implied.

and last issue, copy cats. a guy spends the time and money to design a system, and half a dozen others start building them with no R&D time, in direct competition.

I donno, there's a lot of desire out there for this sort of thing, but is there any money? only way to find out is to try.

Give me 6 months or so, I may have something scabbed together.

volkdent

April 3rd 2008, 13:14

Just a little update, I've not had any issues whatsoever with the front suspension. I think I need a little more castor, it doesn't want to self-correct, but it works just fine. No squeaks, no loose feeling, might be a little overdamped right now and may need a little more travel than what I have set up for the "in the weeds" look that I love.

Jason

volkdent

May 7th 2008, 12:25

This morning on my wonderful driveway curb(it's more like a canal) I heard a pop and then my car just felt really low. Got to work, scraping on everything on the way, and found the main shock mount had failed where it welds to the tubing. The original design had a buttress here, but it was changed as part of the area interfered with the shock. Instead of just removing the offending area itthe whole buttress was removed. I thought it looked like a problem point, and sure enough it is. So, I'll probably just bandage it up and ad it to the "to change" list! This is a prime examply on why I havn't sold this suspension to anyone, R&D is an important part of equipment development. I'll get a pic of the actual break later.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/439564.jpg

Jason

Sandeep

May 7th 2008, 13:22

Thanks for the updates Jason !

Sandeep

speedy

May 7th 2008, 17:36

that is some bad luck jason , but i have every faith in your inginuity to overcome this minor setback and improve the original design:)
jon

volkdent

May 7th 2008, 22:12

No, I didn't just let all the air out of my airbags, this is what it dropped to...

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/439674.jpg

I wonder if the welding was done on both sides of each vertical component it might have been OK...

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/439675.jpg

Jason

Sandeep

May 8th 2008, 14:32

The break looks pretty clean ... almost as if the welding had not been completed in this area ?

It looks like it could be fixed with no redesign .. just proper welding. ?

Sandeep

volkdent

May 8th 2008, 18:29

It is a very clean break, but the design is wrong too. I think had it been TIGed on both sides it would have been OK, but it is still a weak spot, there needs to be an extension of the current bracket to cover the side of the square tubing, not just the top.

Jason

Panelfantastic

May 8th 2008, 18:49

I think the new ride height looks KEWL!:cool:

I think something very similar happened to the rear of the bus but I never got a detailed descrip or any pics from the guy that broke it. Glad you are taking it in stride, really just a minor development hiccup, yes? No real damage to the car or you?

Jeff-

volkdent

June 16th 2008, 03:14

Got her all fixed up a couple of weeks ago, but no GL forums!!!

Here's the welds, only about 30-50% welded through, so that was an issue, but really the design of the arm needed some help.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/451507.jpg

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/451506.jpg

Here's the repair. The welds are pretty rough, I'm not that great a welder and it's MIG compaired to the old TIG, but I wager it will hang on a little better...

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/451505.jpg

Jason

aircool

May 21st 2009, 08:22

Volkdent have you made any progress on your wish bone set up? I'm currently looking into getting the red9 unit.

volkdent

May 22nd 2009, 03:19

If by progress you mean usage, I have, but I havn't built V2.0 yet, I've got a 8 month old rug rat now so bug progress has slowed significantly.

I'm not so sure about the Red9 unit, a few iffy design flaws in my eyes, but you'll be money ahead on shipping!!! I'd talk to a few Red9 owners if you can to see how they are getting along before I'd purchase, just hate to see someone plunk down good money for something that looks cool but really doesn't function that well. It might be the dogs bollocks, I just havn't heard one way or another.

Jason

aircool

May 22nd 2009, 07:12

volkdent

May 23rd 2009, 02:01

Please let us know what you find out.

Jason

kai4130

May 29th 2009, 06:44

I have read all of the posts about your design and whether or not the red9 kit is any good, unfortunately I have been unable to talk to anybody that owns one.

I think the cost:eek: and probably forum posts have put a lot of people off, BUT I have spoken to Simon at red9 and he seems to know his stuff. I'm going to see the unit in the flesh soon and hopefully have a test drive .

We will see I guess!

Hey,

http://www.robinson-race-cars.co.uk/

Try talking to this guy and go and visit him, He's based in Basingstoke. I've been to his workshop and seen what he gets up to and its all very impressive.

Upon other things I approached him to build a wisebone front set up for my Type 3 and he wasn't fazed by the though of doing it (Unlike me :lmao:). He was very happy to talk about it and offered to do the work for me as he's been doing similiar work for over 30years now.

we didn't touch on what prices would be like, I know the price of the Red 9 one is very appealing, although unfortunatly like you I have only heard controversial things about it through the forums.

I hope this can help you to come to a conclusion

:thumbup:

MdR

May 29th 2009, 07:08

If it can be built Andy Robinson can either do it or has already done it.
If it can't be built he probably doesn't believe it and will do it anyway...

evilC

May 29th 2009, 07:20

I do note that his race car prep is confined to drag racing so it might not be 'horses for courses'. I would not be at all confident about designing a drag car suspension but talk to me about highway (rough and smooth) and it will be a different matter.

aircool

May 29th 2009, 11:18

Cheers Kai4130 for the suggestion, dont doubt Andy Robinson could make one but I fear it would be £££££!

EvilC if you look on Andy's website there are a few customers cars which are not drag racers Jaguar sport for one, check out the XJR15:eek:

Luckily I have tracked down a couple of people who have experience of the Red9 kit, one was indifferent the other rated it highly. Luckily the guys that rated the kit are an outfit that set up suspension for track cars, notably Porsche track cars.

I will be getting one as soon as funds allow and I convince my girlfriend I REALLY do need it!!!:lmao:

volkdent

May 30th 2009, 17:32

I would be more excited if the builder did Lotus Super 7 style kit cars, I suspect the knowledge base there would be the most appropriate for the bug kit.

Jason

evilC

June 1st 2009, 06:01

Cheers Kai4130 for the suggestion, dont doubt Andy Robinson could make one but I fear it would be £££££!

EvilC if you look on Andy's website there are a few customers cars which are not drag racers Jaguar sport for one, check out the XJR15:eek:

.....................:

There are only 4 customer cars that are not drag racers. The overriding majority are strip cars. Of the four only the XJR15 and the Ligier have suspension components fabricated by ARRC and they are to preset designs and basic main production bits. The XJR15 is disappointingly low grade and not what you would have expected from a top grade GT style racer. ARRC's fabrication skills are not questioned but as a designer of suspension systems for turning corners I have even more doubts.

volkdent

June 2nd 2009, 00:33

There are only 4 customer cars that are not drag racers. The overriding majority are strip cars. Of the four only the XJR15 and the Ligier have suspension components fabricated by ARRC and they are to preset designs and basic main production bits. The XJR15 is disappointingly low grade and not what you would have expected from a top grade GT style racer. ARRC's fabrication skills are not questioned but as a designer of suspension systems for turning corners I have even more doubts.

Thanks for that, it just reinforced my thoughts...

Jason

aircool

June 2nd 2009, 11:04

There are only 4 customer cars that are not drag racers. The overriding majority are strip cars.

As I said there were a few, sorry you didn't like what you saw.:(

I went to Stoner park at the weekend and met Simon from Red9, had a proper look at the wishbone front end. I am no expert but it is well made and the guy certainly talks a good game. It was also good to see how all the adjustments (there are quite a few!) are made.

Just so happened whilst I was there a customer who had been up for a test drive and put his money where his mouth is came over, he really rated it. It was nice to hear the opinions of someone who had experienced it first hand.

I think I am going to take the plunge and get one myself as soon as I can afford it, I'll let you know what the verdict is when I do.:)

volkdent

June 2nd 2009, 15:56

As I said there were a few, sorry you didn't like what you saw.:(

I went to Stoner park at the weekend and met Simon from Red9, had a proper look at the wishbone front end. I am no expert but it is well made and the guy certainly talks a good game. It was also good to see how all the adjustments (there are quite a few!) are made.

Just so happened whilst I was there a customer who had been up for a test drive and put his money where his mouth is came over, he really rated it. It was nice to hear the opinions of someone who had experienced it first hand.

I think I am going to take the plunge and get one myself as soon as I can afford it, I'll let you know what the verdict is when I do.:)

Sweet!!! Keep us posted.

Jason

volkdent

August 5th 2009, 14:00

WOW, Just found this...not bolt on, but they are working on a Type 1 version apparently. I suggested they make it bolt on, if you feel this might be up your alley let Kevin know.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/584184.jpg

Mendeola S2 Chassis (http://mendeolamotors.com/motors/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=viewcategory&catid=1&Itemid=103)

Jason

chug_A_bug

August 5th 2009, 16:01

SWEET! :D
looks really nice...

Chris.

evilC

August 6th 2009, 07:56

Now, that looks like a properly designed system!

My only observation is that the bottom of the coilovers looks vulnerable so its a track/smooth highway vehicle only. However, it ought not to be too difficult to move the whole unit up with shorter coil overs (if available) or even use a rocker and put the units inboard......... It could also do with some nice rose/heim/spherical joints to replace the squidgy poly bushes for some real control.

Clive

volkdent

August 26th 2009, 14:11

UBR DUB saw its first autocross this weekend. She was a bit of a handful, as you can see LOTS of roll, plus without LSD, the inner rear wheel would spin really easily on exits. I'm going to bolt up the stock Golf II sway bar and see what that does, then go bigger from there, and finally add a front bar.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/590951.jpg

Jason

Humble

August 26th 2009, 18:10

Nice! So besides the wheelspin and body roll how'd you do?

volkdent

August 26th 2009, 20:48

Kind of in the middle. The fastest car was a Super 7 knockoff with 12" Avon slicks and a V8, one of the slowest a VW New Beetle.

There was a guy who competes there regularily with a Chrysler Crossfire with sticky tires, and I think we had the same time. I ended up with a best run of 46.8s, the slick guys were 42-44s, and many in the 48-51s.

For street tires and it's first outing, I was pretty impress. Tire temps were even accross, let out a little more air, she's sitting right at 1990 lbs now, so with 205s up front and 255s in the rear, I was down to about 27psi.

I need to get the rear swaybar on and see how that affects things.

Jason

evilC

August 27th 2009, 07:08

Jason,

What's your tyre temps front/rear? I wonder if you need a stiffer front bar before adding a rear? It doesn't look as though you have too much understeer.

Clive

volkdent

August 27th 2009, 13:02

As I remember they were about 97 deg. It's not so much about grip on the front, although I did get some understeer, the main problem was getting power down due to roll. I don't have a LSD yet, so I would be just spinning the inside tire unless I waited for the car to settle, so I'd like to keep the rear wheels planted better. My weight distribution is 60/40, so I thought I'd start with the stock small front bar in the back and see what it did for me.

I've not had ANY experience with sway bar selection besides just purchasing uprated one's for various cars over the years, so I'm in the dark as to what I'll get from what I add.

Jason