Suby-conversion advice?

[Last Triumph]

Originally Posted by ricola

IT is easy to compare just the cost of the trans, but you are also pretty much on your own for flywheel, clutch etc etc not to mention turning the chassis into a BIG project. For a road car I'm hoping the AT will last a while, especialyl as a second car. Having said that I was offered a low mileage early G50 with LSD for £1500 which did tempt me!

Yup, inner wings need cutting/widening and the trays are long gone!

Rich

All good and true, BUT, the guy with the orange Scooby bug in Volksworld is now on his 3rd type one trans. I guess he abuses it? I wouldn't abuse mine, but it would be nice to know that you're not going to leave a pile of bits on the road if you occaisionally want to smoke 'em up or shift in anger?

Does anyone sell mega tough type one boxes with the stongest and best of everything (Mendeola are too exoensive, but nice idea...)

Plus there is still the 4 speed problem?

Surely someone has mated G50 to a scooby before now and know what to do clutch and flywheel wise?

It would seem a front rad really is the way to go then? I ain't cutting holes though.... No sireee!
I see a big catfish, under valance, C4 'vette style scoop in my future?

Coolant tubes in the heater channels?

If a type one was used with a reversed mount, would that allow DOHC covers to clear the bodywork?

Again, sorry for all the questions.

[MikeVW]

The problem with reverse mounting a type one is reversing the ring and pinion. There is a lot of controversy about the gears ability to handle the high load in the opposite direction. There are type one transmissions that are built for drag and sand racing which should handle the power of the turbo suby motor. I can't imagine they are cheap though.

Mike

[Mikey]

Originally Posted by Last Triumph

Coolant tubes in the heater channels?

If a type one was used with a reversed mount, would that allow DOHC covers to clear the bodywork?

Again, sorry for all the questions.

Don't worry about the quesitons. I'll try to answer the questions I can. About your coolant lines. What is the car going to be used for? Daily driver...? I think the lines in the channels is a good idea, but if by some chance you have a problem you can forget about trying to get to them. I concidered this route myself.

I'm not sure about reaversing the rear mount. I think you gain about 2". I'm sure it would help, but the belt covers would still be close for clearance.

Originally Posted by MikeVW

The problem with reverse mounting a type one is reversing the ring and pinion. There is a lot of controversy about the gears ability to handle the high load in the opposite direction. There are type one transmissions that are built for drag and sand racing which should handle the power of the turbo suby motor. I can't imagine they are cheap though.

Mike

The way it looks to me, he wasn't talking about a mid engine. He was talking about reversing the rear craddle mount. To move the transmission forward.

[MikeVW]

Originally Posted by Mikey

The way it looks to me, he wasn't talking about a mid engine. He was talking about reversing the rear craddle mount. To move the transmission forward.

Upon re-reading it you're right. I got my hopes up, I want to see a mid mounted suby motor mated to a type one transmission.

Mike

[ricola]

If I mid mounted a Scooby I would use a Subaru trans locked to FWD, much easier and cheaper!

The engine DOES fit under stock bodywork with the cradle reversed (gain just under 2" depending on cradle), I and many others have done it.

You can destroy built gearboxes wiht stock engines, it all depends on how you drive. For fast starts preload the gears, no dumping the clutch on every opportunity and it will last a reasonable amount of time. Just choose the right gearing (ie long) and 4 gears isn't a problem at all, turbos like somethign to work against.

I'd be nervous about coolant lines in the channels, if they leak how do you replace them?!

Rich

[Last Triumph]

Okay, this is the deal. I Originally wanted to build a tube frame mid engined chassis for a G50 or similar, a 400bhp small block chevy, full custom double wishbone chassis and mount my '64 body to it all..... I have nursed this dream for nearly 10 years now whilst life has happened.

Upon reflection though, I have woken up to the realisation that my name isn't Boyd Coddington, I don't have his facilities, and I certainly don't have the Discovery Channel funding the idea, so until I can afford to get someone to build it for me, it can sit on the shelf for a few more years?

Now I'm back in the real world with my modest budget, modest skills and single garage, it would seem a Scooby conversion is a much more realistically achievable project given my budget, facilities and space.

My aim is to have a immaculately presented conversion, sort of a resto cal sleeper that may sit in the garage for a few weeks at a time but comes out for a play on sunny days and the occaisional show, with a dozen or so RWYB runs up the strip - without breaking. No burn outs, no dough-nuts but occasional fair but firm use.

I won't be side stepping the clutch at 6k on slicks, or power shifting without the clutch, but in the same breath, I don't want to go to all the time and trouble of building something that I need to tread on egg shells with in case I break it?

Hope that makes sense?

Also, is my theory correct here?.... I think it is much better to start with the most powerful standard engine I can find, than to start with a weaker motor and have to tune it later? My intention would be to use an STi unit 280bhp + from the get go. For the difference in cost, later tuning doesn't seam worth it over starting with the big guns in the first place?

[Mikey]

TL, those are all very achieveable goals.

My first engine choice was a Type-4, but being a College student with a modest budget. I can't very well sit around 2 or 3 years while I save cash for the engine. I decided to go with a Subaru because of the out of box power you get. They were built to go 100,000+ miles with 200+ hp. I ended up buying mine for about $1,000 JDM. You can't touch a big T-1 or a big T-4 for a $1,000.

Your transmission criteria makes perfect sense. I'd like the same type of transmission myself. I'm using a 914 right now. But I'm not sure how well 1st will hold up. I want the best for the money, and I'd rather do it right the first time then have to redo it later.

I believe, it is a shared opinion among us water converters to use a much stronger engine to start with. If you like being under the hood of your bug often. Then a big T-1 or a big T-4 might be good. But if you want to hop in it and drive, with an unbelieveable amount of HP and Tourqe. Subaru. As for later tuning. Ummm... if 200hp in a bug is crazy. Then 300hp in a bug is insane! To help keep cost down, you can always leave it stock for now. Then tune later, also if you think you want to tune it later. Go with an aftermarket ecu over the stock unit. They're about the same cost, but the aftermarket is tuneable later.

I read somewhere. Power, Reliability, and Cost. Now pick two. I'm trying to find the best of all three.