1952 GL update thread

[NO_H2O]

Originally Posted by petevw

Took a look inside the tunnel. 2 fuel, and 2 oil lines will be very tight around the nosecone of the 5spd. I'll grab a few small pipes tommorrow and see how/where they can fit in there.

Pete

If you have some line bending skills, you can bend the lines to tuck up in the body mounting bolt channel to run from front to rear and clamp them securly using some tabs at each body mount bolts. The pic I posted above was of a 912 that does not have the channel. I ran mine (fuel line) in the right channel so it would be protected. I will have to do 2 oil lines (1/2 inch) on the left side of mine when the oil cooler goes in the front bumper/spoiler. The heavy stainless is hell to flare for AN fittings. I bent everything then took it to a hydraulic shop to have them flared.

[Humble]

Pete, I was thinking of using the atv stand to remove the engine and tranny as an assembly rather than one at a time. It could make life simpler when I need to pull them out of the race car for re-work.

[petevw]

I'm sure you could.

You've made the rear apron removable, so it should slide right out as one assembly.

[petevw]

Didn't want to modify the dash for gauges. Bought a multifunction gauge to mount at the steering column with a Motometer holder. The gauge holder broke when i put the gauge in. So made a aluminum ring and bolted it to the Motometer center section. Need to polish it up now.





gauge:



"The E-3 can measure up to 4 EGT/CHT channels, a RPM input, a universal temperature sender input and a universal pressure sender input with a user programmable low/high alarm limits."

Need to wire up the motor and run a multiconductor cable to the steering column.

Pete

[petevw]

Got a set of BBS LM's out of Miami, last year. Found out they wouldn't fit without some thinking. The Remmelle hardware was hitting the inside of the wheel, so the wheel couldn't be bolted up. I was determined to make it work. Decided to try and make my own setup to allow clearance for the deep(ET65) rim/tire. I'm just finishing them up now, almost a year after starting them.







Should i narrow up that springplate some more?
Need to do get them welded and coated. Thinking silver anodize/powdercoat. Local shops?



Sooooo the 18x10 LM's will now fit. It's a very tight squeeze that will need some grinding of that 1 bolt.





Will the sidewinder exhaust fit on the inside of that tire? Who knows...... We'll see.........

I can't get the front wheels on. The LM's have a slightly smaller lug hole than the Dyno's. The Dyno's have always been a bitch to pull on/off. The studs look a little off. Could be bent? or not seated properly. Guess i will have to pull off the front brakes, AGAIN, and get new studs. Or drill the LM holes the same size as the Dyno's. Pic below has the wheel just barely on the studs. Couldn't push it on.



Lanner from Vdub Engineering fixed the front hubs to get the spindle nut sitting flush. This is how they were. Didn't like that at all.



Pete

[Wally]

Originally Posted by petevw

I can't get the front wheels on. .... or not seated properly.

Pete

I think the latter one: if its only a tiny bit out of perpendicular (sp?), it will not fit. If the machined faces of the studs are flat and perpendicular to the mounting surface of the center of the wheel mating area, you have this same problem.
The 'whacking' to drive the studs all the way to properly seat and be perfectly perpendicular is is scaringly great (ask me how I know...), so I can imagine this could be the (simple) cause.

[evilC]

Originally Posted by petevw

..................
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Pete

Pete,

That bottom coilover bolt looks a tad long. There will be a substantial bending moment on the end of it particularly as you are exclusively using the coilover rather than torsion bars. Is there a clearance problem with the damper body on the alloy arm?

Clive

[CLKWRK]

Pete your car is looking nice!
I like what you did with the oil cooler, are you going to go dry sump?